Niseko has changed a lot over the past few years but one much-loved lodge has stayed true to what makes a Japanese ski holiday memorable. Snow Action catches up with Slowlife’s Chad to talk powder days, local food, long lunches, lodge traditions and why guests keep coming back.
Niseko has come a long way since Snow Action last featured Slowlife in 2019. New developments, luxury hotels and an increasingly international crowd have transformed parts of Japan’s most famous ski destination. Tucked away from the bustle, Slowlife continues to do things its own way.
Staff are former guests, powder days are planned over breakfast, and après-ski often involves one of Chad’s infamous margaritas.
SA: “It’s been a few years since we last featured Slowlife. What’s changed, and what makes staying with you different from a typical Niseko holiday?”
CHAD: “Slowlife’s last article for Snow Action was in 2019 and quite a lot has changed in Niseko since then. Luckily for Slowlife guests, not much has changed at Slowlife. “Sure, we may have new carpet, furniture, beds and an updated ski room, but the homely heart of the place remains unchanged.
“The fun family vibe is what sets Slowlife apart and this is no accident. All of our staff have been past Slowlife guests. Some of them stayed at Slowlife for 10 or more seasons before they got the coveted staff position, so they already know most of the guests well and love to reunite with them each year.
“We also have a one-month policy. Staff only come for one month each time. This keeps them fresh and pumped for the entire time, and these positive attitudes flow through the entire lodge.”
SA: Take us through a typical Niseko powder day, from breakfast and first lifts to après-ski.
CHAD: “A typical day at Slowlife starts with a hearty buffet breakfast served from 7am. During breakfast there is always a lot of assessment by the staff and guests on how much snow fell through the night, which way the wind is blowing and where the best runs of the day will be.
“We even have our own snow gauge outside, but it only goes up to 45cm, so some days we can’t see it at all! “The final decision is made after reading the daily Niseko Avalanche Information report provided by local legend Shinya, who has been keeping us all safe for more than 40 years.
“Slowlife has two minivans and guests are invited to join us if they are organised and on time. My saying is, ‘If you are in the van at eight, your day will be great. Come out at 8.02 and you will only see my taillights!’
“If we are riding locally, we drive to Hanazono where parking is easy, and if you are there by 8.15am the line for the first lift is fine. “If it is a snowstorm and the top lifts are shut, we go to Rusutsu. We also spend a fair bit of time at local favourite Moiwa.
“After a great day’s riding we return to home base, where regular guests and newcomers alike all love gathering in the lounge room for our daily happy hour, having an après snack and perhaps one of my infamous margaritas, if they dare.
“Happy hour ends around 7.30pm and guests either go out to dinner or get delivery and eat in. By around 10.30pm most have retired so they can recharge and do it all again tomorrow!”
SA: Everyone talks about January powder, but you’re a big fan of March. Why should people consider a late-season Niseko holiday?
CHAD: “Early March is a great time to visit, especially for families with young children. “The major winter storms are over but the temperature is usually still sub-zero, so the snow stays good. “Blue skies allow for wider exploring and fewer people means more untracked turns. Accommodation is cheaper in March as well.”
SA: Where do you go for a great coffee, cake or casual lunch?
CHAD: “Graubunden is a great coffee, cake and sandwich shop right near Slowlife. The slices of cake are huge, best shared between two. “Musu above the Burton store does an awesome burger. One of my regular guests, Mike, rates it in his top three burgers ever!”
SA: Niseko’s food scene is a huge part of the experience. Where do you send hungry guests, from a casual dinner to something special?
CHAD: “Favourite easy dinner has to be soup curry at Tsubara Tsubara. Hokkaido is famous throughout Japan for this dish and this restaurant is a great example. It is also only 200 metres from Slowlife! “Michelin-starred restaurant Maccarina is my top pick for a fine-dining degustation. It is a 20-minute drive away at Makkari, well worth the trip.
“Sutsu Sakana Isshin is a fantastic sushi and tempura lunch spot near Niseko town, where a full lunch set is still under ¥2,000. “Ren Izakaya is also a great option, Japanese family owned and operated. Rika will greet you with a very warm welcome. Best book early.”
SA: What about shopping like a local? Any favourite supermarkets or Japanese treats visitors shouldn’t miss?
CHAD: “Cave de Bambou is a great wine shop in Niseko town. They stock wines from all over the world at good prices and also sell some great cheeses and charcuterie. “Local supermarkets in Kutchan are MaxValu and Lucky. Both have all the essentials but also delicacies like uni, or sea urchin, and king crab, which is a must-try if you like seafood.”
SA: If guests want to take a day off skiing and explore further afield, where would you send them?
CHAD: “Otaru is a coastal town one and a half hours’ drive north that is worth visiting. In seafaring days it was once the capital of Hokkaido.“Lots of fresh seafood and many large tanks full of live king crabs. Be sure to try the famous LeTAO cheesecake!”
SA: And when you’re not skiing yourself, where are we likely to find you?
CHAD: “If I have had my fill of skiing, you may find me having a long lunch at Park Hyatt Hanazono. “The sommeliers Guido and Lashan do an excellent job of guiding guests through the wine list that has over 700 types.
“China Kitchen at Park Hyatt does a very reasonable special on weekends where you can order as much as you like off the menu for ¥6,500 per person. “My regular onsen is Yugokorotei near Moiwa. Very quiet and serene, a great place to unwind.
“The largest onsen in Hokkaido is the Grand Bath at Noboribetsu, which has around 20 different pools. Another great day trip.”
SA: What do first-time Niseko visitors often get wrong? What should they organise before arriving?
CHAD: “The most important tip is come prepared with your international driver’s licence and hire a car. “Having a car allows so much more freedom to explore what is available in the local area and beyond. There is a lot to see and do.
“Restaurants in Niseko open their bookings three months in advance, so it is best to have a few of these booked. “I like to recommend Yama Sport for equipment rental to my guests as it is a small shop with great personal service.”
SA: Slowlife clearly has some long-standing traditions. Tell us about the Friday night rivalry with Ramat Lodge.
CHAD: “Every Friday night at Slowlife we go to nearby lodge Ramat where we play a very competitive game called Crud. “It is on a pool table using two balls only that are slid by hand, no cues.
“We have 20 players per team, two teams, Slowlife versus Ramat, all running around a pool table taking turns at striking the ball before it stops. “This tradition has been going for 15 years with an engraved trophy showing who won each season.
“Always the best night of the week.”
SA: There must be some hilarious stories after all these years. What’s one of your favourites?
CHAD: “There are many, many funny stories but the most random begins with buying lettuce. “At Slowlife we always have a big Australia Day party and cook rissoles to make hamburgers for all.
“Two seasons ago, in the afternoon I went to Lucky supermarket to buy buns and lettuce. I was approached in the supermarket by a full Japanese film crew who told me they were making a documentary on what foreigners purchased and asked if they could film me shopping.
“They asked why I was buying so much lettuce and I said I was having a party for 40 people. They then asked if they could come to Slowlife that night and film the party.
“On returning to Slowlife I told the other owners that a film crew were coming and at 7pm, to everyone’s disbelief, they arrived. “It was a very funny night, especially with the language barrier, but they told us it would go to air nationally in three weeks.
“In true Slowlife fashion we had another party to watch ourselves on television having a party!”
SA: Finally, after all these years, what keeps bringing you back to Niseko?
CHAD: “It is the guests that keep me coming back to Niseko. To see them with huge wide smiles tell me, ‘That’s the best day’s skiing I have ever had,’ never gets old.”
THE SLOWLIFE DIFFERENCE
For all the changes in Niseko, Slowlife remains refreshingly familiar. The lodge might have new furniture and an updated ski room, but its greatest asset is something you can’t renovate or buy: a community of skiers and snowboarders who return year after year.
It’s a place where staff know the guests because they were once guests themselves, where the day’s powder plan is a group discussion over breakfast and where an ordinary trip to the supermarket can somehow turn into a nationally televised Australia Day party.
And as Chad will happily tell you, just make sure you’re in the van by eight.
Slowlife Niseko | Hokkaido, Japan
Editor’s note: Restaurant prices, offers, booking windows and venue details quoted by Chad should be reconfirmed before publication.
Head over to https://slowlifeniseko.com/ to BOOK or contact Chad chad.slowlife@gmail.com for more info 🙂
