The new Okushiga, Shiga Kogen's French Connection
Superb French cuisine is an indication things have changed at Okushiga, and a hint of why. Tucked away at the far end of Shiga Kogen’s 17 inter-linked ski areas, this was always a hidden powder gem, perfect to escape whatever crowds there were to enjoy the terrain and snow quality. Snowboarders were prohibited, the official policy was no off-piste, and the base hotels offered few reasons for foreign visitors to stay, so most people just skied over from neighbouring Yakebitaiyama, a Prince Hotels’ resort, and back again.
Then Tadashi Inuzuka and his French wife Evelyne took over the resort and hotel and everything changed — from the cuisine to the powder access policy, and all of a sudden Okushiga is a must ski/must stay option. Or must snowboard – riders are welcome this season.
Shiga Kogen has lost out in the popularity stakes to Hakuba and Nozawa in recent years with western markets, and one of the main factors has to be the lack of a welcoming hotel/village experience – the scattered base hubs don’t offer much in that line, and as for aprés-ski it was virtually non-existent.
So those who did go got the quality snow pretty much to themselves, especially midweek. Although lacking the high alpine of the Hakuba Valley, Shiga compensates with a higher base, which makes for consistent snow over a long season.
There’s something about skiing the snow laden pines here that reminds me a lot of Canada, and being able to get in some laps without it getting tracked out is a real bonus.
If you had asked us up till this year where to stay and base yourselves if skiing here we would have answered without hesitation at one of the three Prince Hotels at Yakebitaiyama, which has good snow, fast lifts and no crowds. Even better, it offers a quick ski over to Okushiga and return, so you can spend plenty of time there as well, and jointly they are the best section of the whole Shiga area.
But now the equation has changed: all of a sudden there’s a new Okushiga Resort, with new management, facilities and attitudes that’s keen to open up the area to western skiers and boarders, from powder fiends to families.
We caught up with the new resort President and driving force behind the changes, Tadashi Inuzuka, and his French wife Evelyne, earlier this year for the lowdown. The couple have a long background in the hospitality industry, having had a hotel in Waikiki Beach, Hawaii, for 25 years, and a French restaurant in Shibuya, Tokyo, for 10 years.
Some of the tree skiing is more reminiscent of Canada – although there’s no alpine, the top here is 200m higher than top lift at Happo One in Hakuba, so the snow quality is excellent.
When we skied at Okushiga a few years ago the skiing was great but it seemed like a forgotten resort. There was no one there, no snowboarders allowed, and all this great snow and nice terrain was going to waste. There was nowhere nice to eat or welcoming to stay. I actually said to my skiing buddy, “Wow, I bet you could buy this place cheap and make it into something special” as I was so impressed with the runs and lack of people. We did laps on the gondola with fresh snow and only a couple of other skiers in sight all afternoon.
We had the same impression, that’s exactly why we bought it!
Were you a Shiga Kogen local, how did you know about it?
I am not a “local”, but I was in the ski racing team at school and we used to come to Shiga Kogen every year so I did love the area since childhood.
You have opened up the trees and off piste terrain. For most western skiers the powder is of course the number one attraction for coming to Japan, so how has the reaction been?
So far so good! We will open a huge area of back country with guides from next winter, then we will really see the reaction.
Last spring you did a full day tour over to Nozawa, that would be an amazing trip as part of a 2 resort holiday in future. Have you got plans to offer more back and side country options?
Yes, we have a plan to open up Okushiga across to Mt Ryuo, which is huge, we are still trying to count the hectares!
Is the no snowboarder policy going to change anytime soon ?
Yes, it will be a reality from December 12th, everyone will be welcome.
The Ski School has been revamped as well, you can offer English language programs and kids facilities?
We created a brand new Shiga International Ski School, from December, lea by Robel Teklemarian. He was an Olympian at the 2006 and 2010 Olympics for Ethiopia. He used to run the ski school in Club Med Sahoro, Hokkaido, and decided to join us recently. So tuition in English will be available for groups and private skiers for adults and kids with the best teaching techniques.
A new international ski school makes it a lot easier for foreign visitors
What about the accommodation side, you have been busy with the changes at the hotels too. Where did you find your new executive chef Bernard Anquetil?
He was the head of Cordon Bleu in Tokyo. From this winter we will have many options for our guest. There is one restaurant on the slopes, one Snack/Izakaya at the Ski Center, Gendai French fine dining and Kunenbo Japanese restaurant at the hotel, not to mention the possibilities offered at the other hotel, The Grand Phenix. We would like to add that some nightlife and entertainment will be happening at the Okushiga Hotel with a live singer and magician at the So What lounge.
What’s the French connection on the slopes – you have a sister resort relationship with the Trois Vallées.
Yes, we used to go nearly every year to 3 Vallées, both Meribel and Courchevel, that’s why 3 Vallées and Shiga Kogen are from this year tied up. Season Pass holders from each resort can now ski at the sister resort for 5 days each year.
The Club Med connection extends to Hotel GM Fred Dawance, who was Resort Manager at Sahoro for 12 years, so guests can expect a very welcoming experience. Between the location and the intimacy of the hotel – there are 74 rooms from standard to suites, and some very reasonable rates, especially the packages including breakfast and dinner (from ¥13,000 midweek, ¥14,500 weekends per person twin share) the new Okushiga shapes up as easily the best place to stay in the whole of Shiga Kogen. Kids stay free to 11 years, only paying for meals if using same rooming.
We can’t wait to get back and check out the new backcountry options Tadashi and the team are opening up, with this season shaping as the ideal time to get in first to sample the changes.
the ticket [ okushiga ]
getting to Okushiga: take the Asama shinkansen to Nagano, then express bus (1 hour 45 mins), or use flat rate taxi service (1 hour 15 mins ) for ¥11,530 4 person sedan or ¥14,630 for a 9 person Jumbo; pre reserve with the hotel
resort/stay www.okushiga-kougen.com/en
all resorts info www.snowlove.net/japan
Olympic connections run deep in the Nagano area, here’s Okushiga president Tadashi Inuzuka at a master’s race with Mr Sugiyama, a Japanese competitor at the1956 Cortina winter games who’s still going strong nearly 60 years later!
