CHAMPAGNE POWDER WITH A COWBOY SOUL: STEAMBOAT COLORADO

Colorado boasts 28 ski resorts and all of them can get an Aussie powder hound drooling at their annual snow statistics. But one resort is so confident in its uniquely light, dry powder it has trademarked a term for it.

“Champagne powder” is a phrase reserved only for the white gold that bombards Steamboat Ski Resort, an out-of-the-way gem rising above the old western town of Steamboat Springs in northeast Colorado. The snow falls in buckets and collects in mounds under leafless Aspen trees, holding the consistency of uncorked champagne spray. Those Aspens – a signature of Steamboat’s tree skiing – are steep and perfectly spaced for whooshing through on metal edges.

It’s the kind of snow that would draw a crowd, but being four hours’ drive from Denver is far enough away from the busy i70 highway collecting weekend traffic in Colorado. For Aussies, the cheat code is to fly direct from Los Angeles International into Yampa Valley Regional Airport, which is a 40-minute shuttle ride from the slopes.

Terrain

At Steamboat you don’t ski just one peak – you explore an entire range of peaks and ridges that the 2D trail map cannot do justice. Blissfully, there’s very often a black, a blue, and a green run down from the top of lifts– so groups of different levels can ski together without issue.

The 650-acre Mahogany Ridge area was previously backcountry terrain but opened to skiers with new lift access in winter 2023-24. It’s all advanced/expert terrain with chutes, rock cliffs and trees. On the other side of the map, Sunshine and Storm Peak boast some of the best tree skiing in the USA thanks to deliberate “glading” – where trees have been manicured and cut out to create room to ski between them.

Intermediates will love the First Tracks area that opens to keen skiers at 7.45am daily, offering idyllic, cruisey corduroy. But young families will most appreciate the cordoned-off beginner space that prevents collisions with ski school at idiot hour.

Stay

Ski-in, ski-out takes on new meaning at The Edgmont, where I can literally knock my ski tips on the porch door. Every luxurious western-styled condo in the building comes with a ski locker downstairs but it’s easier to clip in my ski boots through my private slopeside entrance and collapse on my leather couch in front of a gas fireplace. A fully equipped kitchen is handy for breakfasts and snacking, while at night we call the free shuttle bus to take us to dinner in town. Multiple bedrooms and bathrooms make getting a ski group ready an unimpeded breeze. There’s also a gym, two hot tubs and a pool on the ground floor with iconic views of the Alpenglow at sunset.

Eat

Steamboat is a sneaky foodie hotspot with no bad choices when it comes to dining. Indulge in ski history (and lunch) on the mountain at historic Hazie’s or Ragnars – where comforting gourmet soups and bison burgers hit the spot after a morning eating powder snow. Downtown, the share plates at Bésame are almost as stunning to look at as they are to eat. Brass Kitchen and Bar serves delicious and healthy gastropub food with a focus on local, seasonal ingredients. Salt and Lime pours dangerously good margaritas alongside authentic Mexican. And Ore House might just serve the softest, pinkest elk steak on the planet. This is the place to try game meat while reliving the glorious pre-Covid days of a self-serve salad bar.

Things to do

While many readers will have tried a sled dog tour, the Steamboat version with Snow Buddy Sled Dog Adventures is remarkably hands-on. I learn to harness the dogs and where to stand on the sled, am given a sheet of dog commands plus a handheld radio and simply allowed to drive – with no tour guide on the back. “Tazzie, Ruthie!” I shout at my team leaders, “hike!”, and my sled jumps forward through a snowy forest. Later, I try my own cowgirl skills on a memorable trail ride through the snow at Del’s Triangle 3 Ranch, a 45-minute shuttle from the mountain base. In between it all, soaking in the 40-degree water of Strawberry Park Springs is an essential activity, made even more relaxing after braving the freezing river plunge once or twice.

Location: Steamboat, Colorado USA

Famous for:  Champagne powder snow, cowboy culture, and home to the highest number of winter Olympians in America – AKA “Ski Town USA”.

Elevation: 6,900 feet (2,103m ) 10,568 feet (3,221m) 

Lifts: 23

Ski school: Yes, with a designated beginner area cordoned off from the main slope.

Terrain parks: 4

Pass: Ikon Pass

Accessible travel: Steamboat offers free handicap parking and gondola accessibility, welcomes service animals and partners with the STARS adaptive skiing and riding program to provide ski and snowboard lessons for people and veterans with disabilities, autism, injuries or cognitive difficulties.

Best for: Powder hounds and families keen to do more than just ski.