Andermatt, Switzerland’s Family-Friendly Alpine Escape

Until recently, I’d never heard of Andermatt, let alone considered it as a European ski destination. But that’s an upside of the Epic Ski Pass, it nudges you beyond the big name resorts into places you might otherwise overlook. And Andermatt turned out to be a charming discovery.

Tucked into the Urseren Valley in central Switzerland, Andermatt sits at a dramatic meeting point of alpine passes where storms funnel in from multiple directions, delivering reliable snow and frequent powder days. 

Old meets NEW

Despite its snow credentials, Andermatt doesn’t feel like a major resort, perhaps because of its roots. For more than a century, it served as a training base for the Swiss Army, keeping tourism at bay. After the military scaled right back in 2003, significant international investment followed bringing in luxury hotels, apartments and upgraded infrastructure, anchored by sleek The Chedi Andermatt.

The compact old village is full of character, with timber chalets, steeple-topped churches and a winding cobble-stoned main street lined with traditional hotels, restaurants and shops. Nightlife is low-key, which is part of the appeal. The polished new Andermatt Reuss precinct offers upmarket boutiques, wine bars, contemporary dining and even a modern 360-seat concert hall, while the original village, just a short stroll away remains refreshingly unchanged. 

Accommodation

Accommodation options range from comfy traditional hotels to five-star luxury as well as private self-catering apartments. A free bus loops around the village making morning access to the two main gondolas easy, though most places are within walking distance. Watch out for reduced buses and trains at lunch time.

Where to eat

Eat local specialties at traditional restaurants or try the excellent Italian-style pizzas at Hotel Monopol, then cross the street for a wine or two at Vinothek 1620. Fine dining includes The Michelin-starred Japanese restaurant at The Chedi (as well as a compact mountain-side version) and the refined IGNIV Andermatt. Ko Specialty Coffee serves up the best brew in town while the well-stocked Coop supermarket has you covered for self-catering.

On the slopes

The headline act for serious skiers and freeriders here is Gemsstock-a steep, north-facing mountain known for challenging descents and some of Switzerland’s best off-piste terrain. Gentler, sunnier slopes on the Nätschen side cater well to intermediates, while improved lifts and connections to neighbouring Sedrun and Disentis have expanded the scale of the ski area to around 120km of pistes, adding welcome variety. It’s not entirely seamless though with one section still requiring a short train transfer and some clomping around. 

Epic Pass

Epic Pass holders receive five consecutive days of skiing, including access to the Sedrun-Disentis slopes. Note the train to the farther slopes requires a 50 CHF add-on to the pass. The train ride also makes for a relaxing scenic trip in the evening. Discounts are also available to pass holders at selected shops and rentals. 

Getting There & Away

Sitting on the crossroads of the Zurich to Milan rail line and the Glacier Express route between Zermatt and St Moritz, Andermatt is a convenient stopover destination if skiing elsewhere in Switzerland and Italy. Private transfers are also an easy option for groups.