Snowaction’s very own Italophile – Dave Windsor – shares his top seven reasons to hit the Italian slopes.
I’ve had the good fortune to ski 100+ ski areas across 5 continents. From Buller to Bariloche; Snowbird to Serfaus; Revy to Roky; Happo to Hutt; Les Arcs to Lech. And whenever I’m asked about my favourite spot the answer’s always Italy. No where in particular mind you, just Italy. From my experience, having hit 25 Italian areas I can confidently call it my #1 country to ski, eat & be merry.
The reason’s simple – it ticks all the boxes. Sensational snow, modern facilities, spectacular scenery, fabulous food, vibrant villages, superb side trips, gracious hospitality, family friendliness and truly the most wonderful people. I’m not suggesting that other destinations are lacking – on the contrary, every country has so much to explore, enjoy and love. But Italy delivers it all in such a marvellous & memorable mix that I can’t help going back for more – it’s a smorgasbord of snowy splendour.
Underpinning this splendour is the famous yet simple mantra – la dolce vita; which is evident all over the Italian Alps.
The Alps
Italy comprises almost all of the southern side of the alps – or as I like to call them – the sunny side of the Alps. Bordering France, Switzerland, Austria and Slovenia the Italian Alps boast a huge number of resorts, many of which are interlinked and share a common ski ticket. Massive areas such as the Dolomiti Super Ski offer 1,200+ kms of groomed terrain – plus access for Ikon Pass holders. A little further west, the Skirama Dolomiti comprises 8 resorts, 150 lifts and 380km of terrain – plus access for Epic Pass holders.
Italy’s smallest region, Val d’Aosta, has 19 resorts, 800km of runs and 8 snowparks. Including Pila in the region’s capital, upmarket Courmayeur, charming La Thuile, famous Breuil-Cervinia, amazing Monte Rosa, and national treasure the Gran Paradiso National Park, all of which are accessible on the Aosta Valley Skipass and a quick drive on the excellent valley roads. Or there’s the Valdidentro with the duty free and luxurious Livigno, the ancient roman spa town of Bormio, the quaintest of quaint Santa Caterina and the easy going Cima Piazza all within an easy drive or a shuttle.
It’s also possible to ski across borders for a bit of James Bond action and a spot of lunch. From La Thuile you can ski into to La Rosière, France for an escargot lunch. From Courmayeur you can take on the famous Vallée Blanche under Monte Bianco/Mont Blanc into Chamonix in time for happy hour. From Cervinia you can ski into Zermatt for fondue, and take in the amazing view of both sides of the iconic Monte Cervinia/Matterhorn.
And that’s just some of what I’ve explored. Next stops for me include Drei Zinnen and Kronplatz in the northern Dolomiti and the Via Lattea (Milky Way), 8 interconnected resorts (one of which is in France) 2 hours from Turin.
Easy access to gorgeous resorts
Italy has some of Australia’s closest European alpine destinations with daily flights via the Middle East into Venice, Milan and Turin (via Rome). Regular coach services (especially on change over days – typically Saturday) take you direct from airports into resort and some even to your hotel. Or if it’s flexibility and a mission that you’re chasing then rent a car, complete with winter tyres. And of course, the excellent Trenitalia network can transport you all across incredible Italy and into the Alps. I’ve done it all and can highly recommend the journey.
Italian resorts and villages vary from glitzy to humble, big to small, international to local and often within a ski or drive from each other. This variety ensures that every trip is different and various budgets are catered for. Authentic atmospheres, reliable snow / snow making, wonderful stories and amazing people make every trip a great one.
The Italians
Generous, hospitable, welcoming and kind. The Italians truly are the consummate hosts. I’ve had so many standout experiences with the locals. On a Pila ski lift I met Piero, a local alpinist who gladly guided me through the trees of Pila. Then, on his day off, we drove to Courmayeur for a fabulous freeride adventure under the monumental Monte Bianco.
In Bormio I met Alessio who showed me the side country, took me on a night hike and ski in neighbouring Oga ski area, introduced me to his lovely family and invited me to his apartment for dinner.
In Rome, Cosimo not only rented us his awesome apartment over Christmas / New Year, he also dropped off presents, food and wine and even gave us a lift to the train station on our last day – and a bag of freshly baked croissants. Likewise, in Aosta, our landlord Dino took us skiing, invited us for lunch and bought us dinner on our first night. He was so happy to have his first Australian guests.
The Italians love their skiing too, and for the most part they’re very good at it. But, by my estimation, they love to eat, drink and be merry, or seen, even more – after all they’re on holiday too. So, on powder days they’ll happily stay indoors and take it easy – which I’ve experienced on heaps of occasions, and this results in empty slopes that I could smash all day in virtual solitude.
I’ve also noticed that many Italian holiday makers love a long lunch, with a carafe of excellent Nebbiolo, Sangiovese or Pinot Grigio … followed by a fun filled après or maybe a siesta. Again, freeing up the slopes for the final few hours of each day. So, the tip is, get out early before most, eat lunch before 12 and then ski the uncrowded pistes all afternoon.
Family Friendly
My two kids, Porshia and Jack, have well and truly thrived in Italy. Everyone is so nice to children. And I’m not only talking about the terrific kindergartens / day care or sensational ski schools, but also the attitude found in restaurants, accomodation, shops and venues – kids are welcomed, taken care of and even entertained.
In Canazei in the Dolomiti our then 3 year old Jack spent many a happy day at the local kindergarten while we skied to our heart’s content. Several years later, in Livigno and Bormio he graduated to ski school and went from zero to hero in no time – with instructors who spoke English and plenty of spaghetti to keep him fuelled. Whilst in the pretty and quaint Santa Caterina, the amazing Alberto fine tuned Porshia’s technique and shared a pointer or two with me too. And the same can be said for the ski school in Madonna di Campiglio who took Porshia for a tremendous group lesson with a bunch of other excited tweens.
And of course, with plenty of pasta, pizza and gelati there is no end of ‘easy’ dining options to keep the kids happy.
Cuisine
Italian food – need I say more?
I suppose I should. In short, seek out Cucina Tipica (the typical kitchen). Homemade, rustic, authentic and oh so delicious. Polenta, venison, boar, fungi, Milanese, agnolotti & risotto are but a few of the dishes found on the extensive menus – both on and off mountain.
The dining choices are limitless – three course fine dining in elegant rooms; a quick panini from a bar; on mountain refugio’s serving hearty lunches with plenty of atmosphere; chocolate filled croissants, freshly squeezed OJs, a perfect espresso and cheeky grappa for breakie; and the array of cheeses, salumi and marinated goodies make for an appetising après washed down with a Campari Spritz, Trentino Prosecco, or Birra Moretti.
Also, in places like Selva Val Gardena (aka Wolkenstein) Austrian staples such as kaiserschmarrn, schnitzel, germknödel and schnapps are equally available & good as gnocchi, osso bucco, tiramisu and grappa. Likewise, Swiss and French influences can be found the further west you travel through the Italian Alps.
Whether in town, on mountain, at a nearby agriturismo or even at the airport – the Italians know food and know how I like it.
Adventures
Italy, like many other destinations, offer plenty of other activities to round out the perfect holiday. I’ve sledded with a team of huskies through the forest of Arnoga; driven rally cars at the Ice Driving School and go-carts in Livigno; explored the winter markets & ancient forts of Val d’Aosta; paraglided in both Livigno and Bormio; overnighted in mountain refugi on a Dolomiti Ski Safari; ice skated and had a go at curling in Bormio; e-biked up 800 vertical metres, through 18 hairpins on the Via Fraele to the spectacular Lake Cancano at 1,950 metres.
Unparalleled history and culture
Finally, it would be remiss not to mention the phenomenal cultural & heritage experience to be had in Italy. It boasts the world’s most UNESCO world heritage sites (61 if you include the Vatican City) so we typically start our visits with a warm up week checking out one or two of Italy’s incredible towns or cities. From the ancient streets of Rome to art rich Florence; the labyrinth that is Sienna to Pisa’s leaning tower to Venice’s tangle of canals; the oh so romantic Verona to the hustle of Milano ; the spectacular sea side Cinque Terre to the historic towers of San Gimignano; and so much in between.
And in 2026, Italy will host it’s third Winter Olympic Games in Milana-Cortina. Having previously hosted the games in Cortina d’Ampezzo in 1956 and Torino in 2006 and producing legends such as Alberto Tomba, Deborah Compagnoni, Gustav Thöni, Michela Moioli, Giorgio Rocca and Federica Brignone.
So if it’s good enough for the Olympics, it’s good enough for me … and you.
Italy has it all – the snow, the fun, the culture, the people, the Alps and above all – la dolce vita.
More info: www.skiitaly.com.au
